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Versailles is also a city! Discover the creators of Notre-Dame, stroll through the cobblestone streets of the Saint-Louis district or admire the equestrian performance set to baroque music, while eating fruit from the King's garden... Versailles, as a city, offers a refined voyage to the art of fine living.
Begin with a walk past the early risers at the Notre-Dame Market. From the Right Bank of the SNCF train station, you can enter by the rue Maréchal Foch. Underneath the iron and stone halls, the market is a temple of refinement with more than 300 stalls, in the heart of 'the golden triangle' of Versailles. Browse from one stand to another: the magnificent presentation of the products will make your mouth water. As you leave, take the time for a quick tea or coffee on one of the numerous bistro terraces. You will surely meet some very lively and picturesque people.
From the market, head towards the passage de la Geôle. Hunt at your leisure for that rare treasure among the antique watches, paintings, sculptures, books and even toys... This former wine cellar, built in 1677, has the reputation for being one of the best antique markets in the West of Paris.
A bit further on, at number 7 of the rue des Deux Portes, you will find a charming courtyard. In her workshop-boutique, Pauline Pin sells her own handbag creations, as well as clothes by trendy designers like Vanessa Bruno. On your way out, have a look at the tea-room, Passivi Thé, on your right. The sculpted iron decor and the boxes of tea suspended from the ceiling constitute an invitation to travel. On Saturdays, poetry lovers come by for a drink. For an authentic encounter, meet Allison, an American stylist with bright blue eyes. An absolute must! In her boutique Kentucky Rain (25 rue de la Paroisse), Allison speaks of the « city side » of Versailles with passion. Amateur of vintage clothing since her childhood, this architectural student creates accessories, handbags and hats in delicate, original fabrics. Don't get the wrong idea about the name. Kentucky Rain is not a reference to her American heritage, but rather her favourite Elvis Presley song!
When exiting the boutique, have a good look at the floor: on a drainpipe, a mysterious artist has painted a small round head with a dreamy look. If you look carefully, you will find several others on the walls and pavements of the city.
Looking for a good spot for lunch? In the heart of Versailles, the Aparthé, across from the Notre-Dame church, will make you feel « at home » in this warm restaurant, complete with a parakeet and soft sofas. The meat hails from Argentina and Germany and the boxes of tea from Mariage Frères propose a different nectar each day: read the blackboard for the daily flavour. This popular meeting place is nearly always full.
Should you not be able to find a table at Aparthé, nothing to it, try the Brasserie du Théâtre, located on the rue des Réservoirs. This early 19th-century brasserie is decorated with the traditional Bordeaux coloured benches of the time and you can even read the dedications on the photos of the famous French actors stuck on the mirrors. These words are not there by accident: connected to the brasserie is the renowned Théâtre Montansier, which has conserved its blue room since the 18th-century.
For a little something sweet, before the visit to Versailles Castle, try Les Colonnes, at the place Hoche, a hand-made chocolate and sweet shop dating back to the thirties. Penetrate this sugary shop to get a taste of the traditional spirit of Versailles.
To assist at the horse shows, shrouded in baroque music, reserve a seat at the Equestrian Performance Academy, situated across from the castle. This ancient stable, belonging to Louis XIV, is now a training academy. The famous choreograph, Bartabas, proposes a new show each year that highlights the experience and talent of the young horses and riders: fencing on horseback and improvisational showmanship. The shows are performed on Saturdays, Sundays and certain Thursdays. The morning shows begin at 11 a.m., so it's wise to plan to eat somewhere in the castle gardens or near the academy. You can also visit the stables after the show.
Afterwards, offer yourself complete immersion into the refinement of the French 'art de vivre' with a visit to the Petit Trianon in the Domaine of Marie Antoinette. After three years of restoration, the site opened its doors in September 2008. In the garden, you will see the 'Temple of Love' that the Queen admired from her bedroom or the caves where she received her lovers... A different look at the history of Versailles. It's here that Sofia Coppola shot her film, Marie Antoinette, the impressionist-rock biography of the Queen in 2005. The American director was determined to re-create the atmosphere of the times by filming in the actual rooms, using French florists and pastry makers to make it more authentic. It took 19 days to film. To get there, hire a bicycle at the entrance to the castle: you'll enjoy a ride through the park, the wind in you hair.
Not far from the castle, the contemporary art centre, La Maréchalerie (5 avenue de Sceaux), is dedicated to « experimental art-architecture ». Initiated by the architectural school of Versailles, this space is open to the public in the afternoon and organises meetings between the artists and the architects. New exhibitions are offered three times a year.
The very discreet neighbourhood of Saint-Louis calls for a leisurely stroll. Take advantage of the convivial atmosphere at, La Terrasse, a restaurant specialised in South-West cuisine. A bit further on, take the rue du Vieux Versailles to Les Passions de Tom, a trendy shop for design connoisseurs, refreshingly original in this city that is renowned for its 18th-century objects. Specialist of 20th-century antiques, Tom discovers inventive Scandinavian jewellery. He shares his passion with his sister, Sophie, who has the mosaic tile shop right next door. You will also notice a hair-salon that looks like it belongs to another century, Mediterranean court-yards, a carpenter shop and a children's book shop...
La rue de Satory will lead you to the Saint-Louis Cathedral. This principal axe is bordered with bars, terraces and lovely restaurants. The lamb and potatoes, from Limousin, where the terrace gives onto the castle, is excellent. The cathedral, a classical style tinted baroque, offers an example of the 18th-century architecture. Near to the altar, the royal crown carried by two angels is impressive in size, as if it could challenge God. In the front left of the nave, you will see Saint-Peter Walking on Water by Francois Boucher.
As you leave, cross the road until you reach the King's vegetable garden (Potager du Roi). Fields of jasmine, roses and lilies... More than 200 varieties of apples, pears, tomatoes and other vegetables, will surprise you. These nine hectares of gardens, that once satisfied the nutritional needs of Louis XIV, are today a source of great inspiration, and temptation as you walk along the path. Happily, the peacefulness and abundance of the garden are sufficient to nourish the senses and you leave this garden of Eden with a sentiment of fulfilment.
The King's vegetable garden is also home to the National Landscaping School of Versailles. Two squares are reserved for the eclectic creations of the students. Extremely original, you can't miss them! The charming Parc Balbi, lies next door and sets itself in an Anglo-Chinese garden from the 18th-century. It is highly considered by the Versailles locals as a place of elegance, unknown to most and off the beaten path.
Before heading back towards the Right Bank SNCF train station, don't miss a look at the Carrés Saint-Louis. These two-floor houses were used as homes for the shop-keepers, and were transformed into houses in 1755. Today, the shops are still on the ground floor, many restaurants too.
To prolong your visit, stay for a magical evening performance at the Grandes Eaux Nocturnes, in the gardens of the castle (Saturdays, from July to September). At nightfall, the gardens and the fountains come alive with lights and music. A splendid spectacle that transports you back into the realm of the Sun King, with opulent nights and magnificent balls.
Recently renovated, this 18th-century hotel shines a little light on the city and the architectural elegance of the period homes. Thirty-five rooms exhibit original works from the Versailles artists, such as Houdon, Voltaire and Rousseau, works seized during the revolution and post-impressionist works from the Guy Collection.