Palais-Royal, much ado about trends

From the Louvre Museum, go to Palais-Royal. You'll discover the Louvre des Antiquaires . The name may be confusing, but it's not part of the museum. It's a shopping arcade dedicated to top-notch antiquarians: 250 dealers offer the very must) see of antique furniture and artefacts (the must-buy is really optional). In front of the Conseil d'Etat (the Council of State - which assists the Executive and is the supreme Court for administrative justice), skateboarders don't pay much attention to official limos and just ride for pleasure, offering a cheerful and never-ending show.

If you walk to Place Colette, stop at the Nemours. This nice café welcomes theatre actors and local patrons for a "Croque-Monsieur" (in France we don't only eat dogs, we eat Sirs - the very meaning of "Croque-Monsieur", a toasted ham and cheese sandwich) or a Moliere's salad. The nearby Comédie-Française is our National Theatre. You can visit it and see the very seat where Moliere - our Shakespeare - died while playing. Feel free to attend a performance: even if the French language can be challenging, you'll be delighted by the settings, you'll have a chance to discover great French playwrights such as Racine, and you can even get cheap tickets 1 hour before the performance of the day.

In front of the theatre, the fanciful metro entrance was designed by contemporary artist Jean-Michel Othoniel. It's named the Kiosque des Noctambules, "Night Revellers' Kiosk". If you go under the arches, you'll reach the Palais-Royal Gardens. A first space is dedicated to the Buren Columns , and then you'll see the well-organized gardens. The place used to be very low-key: it welcomed women of easy virtue for long, as it is depicted in the infamous French novel Death at Credit (Louis-Ferdinand Céline). It's a very old souvenir though: now the place welcomes cutting edge performances of Paris Quartier d'Eté, contemporary sculptures, and the most luxurious shops.

Don't miss the insight it offers into fashion trends: for someover-expensive and museum-like vintage, visit Didier Ludot at n°31 galerie de Montpensier. You may not be able to invest into a Kelly Bagor a Patou dress, but the window displays are magnificent and DidierLudot is the true Pope of French Vintage at its best. A few steps awayyou'll find the more familiar Marc Jacobs (at n°34). For a French touchon the well-heeled side, check Pierre Hardy's stilettos (at n°156galerie de Valois), and for a Goth-Lolitaish style, don't miss RickOwens (at n° 130-133 galerie de Valois). If the prices take your breathaway, have a rest at one of the welcoming terraces of the numerouscafés. At the back of the Gardens, you'll see the Grand Véfour. It'sone of the oldest Parisian restaurants (Booking is mandatory).

Walkto rue de Montpensier (same side as the gallery). At n°25, the tuckedaway Maison Martin Margiela will welcome you in its airy surroundings.You can take Passage Hulot to reach rue de Richelieu. At n°58, you'lldiscover the original building of the Bibliothèque nationale de France - it's now dedicated to Art history. It will be under renovation in2009, but this won't affect the exhibitions.

Hang around the areaup to Place des Victoires (through Rue des Petits-Champs et rueLafeuillade). At n°21 rue Hérold, the kids' museum Musée en Herbe welcomes artists willing to educate a young crowd (from 2 to 11 yearsold)  with workshops and displays. Grown-ups may prefer theultra-confidential L'Eclaireur at n°10: ring before entering this smartconcept-store, and note the place is not pram-friendly.

Then take rue Coquillère and rue du Bouloi. At n°4, Le Laboratoire brings science and arts together.