... to the Canal

Take a stroll alongside the canal. Its shady banks offer a quiet atmosphere: take the time to look at the comings and goings of small yachts and barges, passing through the various locks to follow the stream.

These beautiful settings have attracted numerous cheerful shops like a magnet, especially on Quai de Valmy. At n°83, you'll find the beautiful Fair Trade shop Dupleks (for a style with a soul), and the interesting art bookshop Artazart (especially good for design). Artazart also welcomes exhibitions of young artists in a separate room. Stella Cadente 's flagship store is a few steps away at n°93 and offers a very feminine and romantic fashion (note that "Stella Cadente" means a shooting star in Latin - the designer is Stanislassia Klein). At her doorstep, you'll find the adjoining shops of Antoine et Lili : women and children are spoilt with a colourful fashion, and there's also a nice selection of gizmos and homeware.

At this point, you're very close to Jardin Villemin. This garden is partly managed by locals as a community project. Enjoy its centenary trees, which include chestnuts, plane trees and pines. The building at the back is the Couvent des Récollets, a cultural centre coupled to flats welcoming artists for temporary residences. It used to be a convent and then an hospital.

If you go up the Left Bank, you'll reach the Opus café (at n° 161). It's especially good at night for jazz, gospel music, funky beats or soul rhythms. Don't miss the Point Ephémère at n°200, below the street level. This informal cultural centre offers a dynamic agenda of concerts, workshops, special events, and a bustling terrace overlooking the canal.

For a gastro lunch, enjoy La Bulle, ( 48 rue Louis Blanc, perpendicular to Valmy). Its surroundings are a mix of a provincial house with a design twist. Taste the eggs casserole with porcini and chanterelles, or the tuna steak in chorizo sauce. The ginger cheesecake is a must too.